Cергей, ты совсем правильно пишешь, и все эти эксперименты я потихоньку делаю. Но времени нет. Сегодня удалось закончить работу чуть пораньше, ну, думаю, на любимой речке поснимаю чаек хоть в полёте, подсвеченных солнцем (чтобы не особо заморачиваться насчёт шевелёнки). Дык, редиски, попрятались

. Одна только и продефелировала (и вроде неплохо снялась). В общем, у меня всё более закрадывается впечатление, что камеру надо серьёзно изучать

.
Что подтверждает, кстати,
обзор Тома Хогана. Весьма полезное чтение.
Цитата:
Цитата:
So far, all good news, right? Well, there's some bad news, too. Be prepared to completely forget how you used to set autofocus on previous Nikon DSLRs and prepare to take considerable time figuring out how to optimize your use of the new system. I'll have much more to say in my eBook, but here's the learning approach that I think works best:
* Start with Single Area, Single Servo and mostly stationary subjects. Practice with both centered and off-centered subjects and observe how the system does (or doesn't) respond in these situations.
* Next, turn on Continuous Servo and work with moving subjects. You'll note that this works with subjects moving in line with you, not so much with subjects moving across the frame.
* Make a big jump and go to Auto Area, Single Servo. Here you're trying to see how the camera's auto detection works (you'll see the sensors used in the viewfinder). It's critical to see if Auto Area is going to work for you, as you don't have many other choices beyond it and Single Area. Pay careful attention to what things Auto Area gets right and what it gets wrong. You're later going to use Auto Area for those things that it does well.
* Again, turn on Continuous Servo. Now you don't get to see where the camera is focusing, but the system will deal with moving subjects. Compare the results you get here with what you got in the last step, again looking for what works.
* Finally, you need to explore the Dynamic Area AF options with Continuous Servo. Start with 51 points with 3D tracking, which is a lot like Auto Area. The difference is that you're controlling the initial AF starting point, which means that you can give the camera hints to fix the things that it got wrong with straight Auto Area. If you work with many moving objects or moving objects that are smaller than the autofocus sensor area, consider switching to 9-point or 21-point patterns. With these options, you're restricting the amount away from the initial autofocus sensor the camera can move. I found these options to be particularly useful with sports where more than one body is in the frame and I wanted to follow focus on just one player.
В общем, будет экспериментировать.
Вот лучший кадр птички, который я получил (нулевой шарп, прямо из камеры, Нейтральный стиль) и файл становится сильно лучше от разумного подшарпления)
Ну и кот на ИСО800, 300ммФ4 объектив, лёгкий ПП.
100% кроп открывается по клику.
Да, кстати, а ты не мог бы где-то выложить (или мне прислать) 100% кроп твоих экзерсисов с котом? Я был бы весьма признателен.